Afghanistan
is an intensely Muslim country. Although the Blue Mosque in Mazar-i-Sharif
is one of the most important Shia Muslim shrines, the country is 85% Sunni.
The Hazaras of central Afghanistan form the bulk of the Shias, and as such
have strong links to Iran. The country has historically been a great centre
of Sufism.
In
1959, Afghan leadership stopped enforcing the seclusion and veiling of
women, something that the Holy Qu'ran is often interpreted to require.
However, the Taliban's accession to power has brought back the burqua with a
vengeance. Afghan women are flogged or otherwise punished for refusing to
wear the shuttlecock-shaped accouterment, or for being on the street without
the company of a male relative, or for painting their nails. Women can only
attend single-sex hospitals (of which there are few) and are not allowed to
seek employment or education. Female visitors to Afghanistan should take
great care: dress even more carefully than you would in Iran, keep a man
close by whenever you take to the street, and do not enter mosques.
Afghanistan's Islamic heritage is also the basis of its famous hospitality: if
you - male or female, Muslim or not - are invited into a home, expect to be
treated with a respect not often understood in the West. Though a family
may clearly be putting themselves under financial strain to provide a meal for
you (the honoured guest), refusing the invitation or offering to bring food
would be a grave insult. A gift of fruit, flowers or something small from home
would be appreciated, however.
Afghanistan's geographical position - for centuries crisscrossed by armies,
empires and trade routes - combined with its varied geological terrain have
given rise to the great diversity of foods, arts, languages and traditions
that make up this country's cultural heritage. Unfortunately, many of the
country's artistic treasures have been surreptitiously sold on the global
market, while 2001 saw the destruction of the Great Buddhas in Bimiyan by the
Taliban. The Afghan people have, in some ways, sacrificed such luxuries in
order to survive. However, no country with as rich and plentiful a heritage as
Afghanistan could forget this source of strength and expression. If and when
this country is blessed with a little peace, expect to be dazzled by its
contributions to the world's culture once again.